Valle Gran Rey – La Gomera’s Sun-Kissed Valley by the Sea

Geography and Setting
Valle Gran Rey is located on the western coast of La Gomera and is one of the island’s most scenic and visited regions. The name means “Valley of the Great King,” a reference to the indigenous rulers who once governed the area. The valley descends from the mountains of the Garajonay region and winds its way down through steep ravines, palm groves, and terraced slopes before opening to the Atlantic Ocean.

The area is made up of several small villages including La Calera, Borbalán, La Puntilla, La Playa, and the port area of Vueltas. These settlements are connected by a coastal road and walking paths, creating a long and varied stretch of valley life by the sea. Valle Gran Rey combines traditional agriculture with laid-back tourism and is known for its dramatic cliffs, warm climate, and relaxed pace.

History and Culture
Historically, Valle Gran Rey was an important agricultural zone, known for banana plantations, palm syrup production, and terraced farming. It has also preserved traces of its indigenous heritage, as the area was home to one of the island’s last resisting groups of Guanches before the Spanish conquest.

In the latter part of the 20th century, the valley began to attract visitors looking for a peaceful and alternative way of life. Over time, it developed into a destination known for its wellness retreats, nature-oriented travelers, and European residents seeking winter sun. Despite increased tourism, Valle Gran Rey has managed to retain its authenticity, and traditional farming continues in the upper parts of the valley.

Population and Local Life
Valle Gran Rey is home to a few thousand permanent residents, many of whom work in agriculture, tourism, or small family-run businesses. The villages have a welcoming and multicultural feel due to a long-standing community of European settlers and seasonal visitors.

Markets, cafes, and craft shops line the pedestrian streets, especially in La Calera and Vueltas. Local restaurants offer fresh fish, goat cheese, tropical fruits, and Gomeran specialties like almogrote and mojo picón. The pace of life is slow and grounded in nature — early mornings are quiet, and evenings are best spent watching the sunset over the Atlantic.

Tourism and Attractions
Valle Gran Rey is one of the most popular tourist areas on the island thanks to its beaches, hiking trails, and consistent sunny weather. It offers a range of accommodation from boutique hotels and apartments to eco-lodges and yoga retreats.

The coastline includes several black sand beaches such as Playa de La Calera, Playa del Inglés, and Charco del Conde — each offering different atmospheres from family-friendly to naturist-friendly to wild and wave-rich. Inland, hiking trails wind through palm-covered slopes, ancient terraces, and quiet hamlets.

The area is also known for its dolphin and whale watching excursions, which depart from the small harbour in Vueltas. The calm waters off the coast are ideal for spotting marine life year-round.

Transport and Accessibility
Valle Gran Rey is accessible by road from San Sebastián de La Gomera via a scenic drive that takes approximately 1.5 hours. The route winds through the mountains, passing viewpoints and highland villages along the way. Public buses connect Valle Gran Rey to other parts of the island, although schedules may be limited, especially on weekends.

Car rental is available in the valley, and walking or cycling is a practical and enjoyable way to explore the surrounding villages and beaches. The town of Vueltas includes a small harbor with boat services offering excursions along the coast and occasional inter-island crossings to Vallehermoso or Playa Santiago.

Worth to do!
Valle Gran Rey offers a wide range of nature-based and cultural activities for visitors of all ages. Here are some of the most popular experiences:

Relax at Playa de La Calera
This is the main beach of the valley — wide, calm, and perfect for swimming or sunbathing. It offers soft black sand and scenic views of the cliffs behind.
Watch the Sunset at Playa del Inglés
Located at the far end of the valley, this wild beach is a favorite spot for sunset views. It is also known for its relaxed and naturist-friendly environment.
Take a Whale and Dolphin Watching Tour
Departing from Vueltas, these boat trips offer the chance to see pilot whales, bottlenose dolphins, and sometimes turtles in the calm Atlantic waters just offshore.
Explore the Traditional Villages
Walk through the connected villages of La Calera, Borbalán, and Vueltas to experience Canarian daily life, artisan shops, and open-air cafes.
Hike in the Upper Valley
For active travelers, the trails above the valley lead through palm groves and terraces to panoramic points with views over the ocean and cliffs.

Conclusion
Valle Gran Rey is a place where the mountains meet the sea, where tradition blends with tranquility, and where the rhythms of nature set the pace. With its black sand beaches, green hillsides, and welcoming villages, it has become one of La Gomera’s most beloved destinations. Whether you're coming to swim, hike, watch dolphins, or simply unwind, Valle Gran Rey offers a peaceful and scenic escape with a strong sense of place.

Valle Gran Rey - La Gomera's Sun-Kissed Valley by the Sea

See also

South Coast of Tenerife - Ultimate Tourist Guide

Masca Valley - Unforgettable Landscape.

Roque Nublo and the Mountainous Heart of Gran Canaria - The Island Above the Clouds